Top | Newsletter 2011

Culinate Newsletter November 2

(mailing, James Berry)

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 h1. Dear readers,
 Dried beans were not part of our diet when I was kid. We had plenty of wild game and garden produce, but we ate beans rarely, and when we did — maybe in a Chili Con Carne — we used canned kidney beans. But as an adult, I've grown tremendously fond of soaking, cooking, and eating dried beans. 

 In fact, on the kitchen counter right now is an assortment of beans from Viridian Farms that I purchased at last weekend's farmers' market: flageolets verts, beautiful pale green beans; haricorts tarbaise, traditional in cassoulet; cannellini, which hold their shape beautifully when cooked (as long as they're not overcooked); and mongetas catalanas, small white beans from Spain.  

 So, what to do with them all? Recently I cooked up a batch of White Bean, Chard, and Pasta Soup, which was garlicky good, and I always love the White Beans and Greens Bruschetta — but there [/search?vt=default&ctype=recipe&stype=content&q=beans  dozens] of other ways to enjoy beans (not the least of which is simple [/articles/ourtable/theultimatebudgetmeal "rice and beans"]). Napa's Rancho Gordo is a good source for mail-order heirloom beans; owner Steve Sando's [/books/bookreviews/heirloombeans cookbook] is an indispensable resource when it comes time to cook your beans.

 When I was a kid, I used to think Jack was a fool for trading his cow for beans. Now, though, as I try to be more thoughtful about how much meat and dairy we eat, I'm starting to think he was on to something. 

 Kim Carlson
 Editorial Director

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story1text: "Joan Cirillo has eight suggestions for would-be foragers — and several good books to consult."
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story2text: '"Food shared in the midst of sorrow allows for a moment of respite," writes Ellen Kanner.' 

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recipe1text: 'Terrific as a brown-bag lunch, this meal in a bowl becomes vegan if you simply omit the feta.' 
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recipe2text: 'This rich and amazing cake comes from the new book, "Bi-Rite Market’s Eat Good Food."'

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