Top | Newsletter 2011

Culinate Newsletter September 7

(mailing, James Berry)

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 h1. Dear readers,
 If you've given up on peaches because you've had too many that were mealy or bland, take heart; the problem, according to a couple of online discussions — where actual peach growers weighed in — is generally with peaches that are harvested too early, in order to be shipshape when they arrive on grocers' produce shelves. 
 The looks vs. flavor tradeoff is not an uncommon thing in the world of fruit. But if those red Superball strawberries usually leave something to be desired, they can often be worked into a pie or a salad, while bad-but-beautiful peaches often have to be ditched altogether. "I've given up on buying peaches because the duds far outnumber the good ones," said one commenter. "At least with lots of other fruits, even if they aren't the best, they aren't totally inedible." 
 That's just plain sad, because an excellent peach is about as good as fruit gets.
 If you can buy peaches that are harvested just before they're absolutely ripe — like the ones at most farmers' markets — you'll probably be rewarded. This week on the site, pastry cook Katherine Sacks introduces several varieties of peaches and talks about some of the things she likes to cook with them (including a refreshing peach-and-espresso semifreddo). 
 One way to salvage not-so-perfect peaches is to roast them. "This is a good recipe to pull out of your hat," writes our recipe editor, Carrie Floyd, "when the peaches you bought are not so stellar that all you want to do is eat them fresh, dripping over the sink." 
 Which may be the best way to enjoy a peach — that is, except for picking and eating it right beneath the tree.
 Kim Carlson
 Editorial Director

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story1text: 'Kelly Myers creates a good-as-gold condiment of fresh summer vegetables.' 
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story2text: "Find out what dish changed this Chicago chef's life (yes, it was from Mexico)."

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recipe1text: "Like a peach pie but without the pastry, this fruit tastes great with a scoop of ice cream or Greek yogurt." 
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recipe2text: "From Melissa Clark's forthcoming book 'Cook This Now' comes this excellent, seasonal salad." 

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