Top | Newsletter 2013

Culinate Newsletter May 3

(mailing, James Berry)

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 h1. Dear readers,

 Have you ever thought about the notion of power in food? I had not — not until recently anyway, when I sat down with Nancy Singleton Hachisu, author of the beautiful cookbook Japanese Farm Food. In our short but ranging conversation about her book and cooking on her family's farm in Japan, she mentioned the concept to me. "What do you mean exactly?" I asked. "Power in food?"

 You know, said Nancy. "Food is allowed to be … boom! The \[cook's\] energy goes into the food." I've met Nancy a few times, and she strikes me as highly energetic: besides being part of a farming family, she's the mother of three school-aged sons, the owner of a preschool, and a determined world traveler. As we chatted over coffee, she produced samples of homemade soy sauce for me to try — and there is the fact of her nearly 400-page book. 

 Several years ago, she also made time to intern at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, and describes the food there as "beautiful, sensitive, and powerful."

 "Ours is rougher," she says, referring to food on the farm. But it too has power. "The farmer," she writes, "puts the same love into the field that we cooks put into our food. It's that alpha factor, along with great ingredients, or heirloom seeds and rich, loamy earth, that will push the food to the extraordinary."

 Kim Carlson
 Editorial Director

 P.S. This weekend, I'm making my dog a treat: Dog's Stodge, adapted from Tod Davies' sweet book Jam Today. Got a dog? Join me!

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story1id: 456598
story1text: "Anne Willan offers tips to Kerry Newberry — and all of us — about using wine in your cooking. Recipes too."
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story2text: "Ever wonder which produce labels have legal definitions? This excerpt from a new cookbook breaks them down."

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recipe1text: "Grab your widest skillet for Adam Ried’s delicious, quick-cook recipe."
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recipe2text: "Freeze cubes of mango to make this beautiful, simple, sublime dessert." 

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