Top | Newsletter 2011

Culinate Newsletter January 26 11

(mailing, James Berry)

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 h1. Dear readers,

 Although I was disappointed to have missed President Obama's State of the Union address, I did manage to read a short account of the speech — the food angle at least — on Obamafoodorama this morning. Blogger Eddie Gehman Kohan reported that the president got a few laughs as he discussed the number of government agencies that regulate one of our national treasures: salmon.

 "Then there’s my favorite example: the Interior Department is in charge of salmon while they’re in fresh water, but the Commerce Department handles them when they’re in salt water," President Obama said. "And I hear it gets even more complicated once they’re smoked." 

 Interestingly, salmon came up elsewhere today. In this week's installment of The Minimalist — the 13-year-old column's final installment, in fact — Mark Bittman relates how, early on at least, he wrote about salmon often, "when it was becoming common and cheap thanks to aquaculture." 

 "Maybe," he writes, "it tasted better in those days, and it was certainly less discredited." In recent years, he says, he rarely mentioned the fish. 

 To be clear, the Monterey Bay's Seafood Watch program rates wild salmon as an excellent choice for dinner, as it does salmon farmed in tank systems. The same group, however, calls Atlantic farmed salmon a poor choice and urges us to avoid it.

 While the President is wise to want to simplify regulation of salmon at the government level, I'd love to see more transparency for consumers. Where does one find salmon farmed in tanks?

 I know where to find wild-caught Alaska salmon, at least for today: In our freezer. This morning I pulled the last package of Alaskan pink salmon caught by my father-in-law last summer. We'll savor it tonight, marinated in soy sauce, lemon juice, and olive oil, and broiled just until it's cooked. 

 That's simple enough.
 Kim Carlson
 Editorial Director

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story1id: 306685
story1text: "Is it time to revisit the kinds of fats you eat — or don't eat?" 
story2id: 312652
story2text: "In this excerpt of William Alexander's excellent book on baking bread, he delves into the water factor." 

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recipe1text: "Our recipe editor's Soup of the Moment, from Crescent Dragonwagon."
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recipe2text: "Pair this Katherine Deumling recipe with steamed greens for a warming winter dinner."

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