(recipe, James Beard)


This is the answer to an all-purpose seasoning agent. Its flavor is irresistible. You will want to add it to everything you make. A little of this preparation added to eggs is delicious. It is an integral part of many sauces and may be used for a quick toasted sandwich or for hors d’oeuvre.


  1. Chop 3 pounds mushrooms fairly fine. They do not have to be of the very top quality. You can use little ones and mixed sizes.
  2. Melt ½ pound butter in a very heavy skillet and add the mushrooms. Stir them to blend with the butter and cook them over low heat, stirring occasionally until the mushrooms have thrown off all their liquid and have turned a very dark brown, almost black. It may be necessary to add additional butter, and care must be taken that they do not get crisp. They must remain soft.
  3. Add salt and pepper to taste and spoon them into a jar or bowl for keeping.