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Like mama used to make

(article, Culinate staff)

In the New Yorker's recent annual travel issue, writer Elif Batuman visits an unusual restaurant in Turkey: one that specializes in traditional home cooking from all over the country, instead of the typical restaurant themes of kebabs, or fish, or savory pastries. 

The restaurant, Çiya (and its sister restaurants), are run by Musa Dagdeviren, "who has masterminded an ambitious project to document, restore, and reinvent Turkish food culture." Musa and his wife publish a magazine about food and culture, and his motto is "Food has no ethnicity, only geography." 

According to Batuman, Musa is skeptical about the Slow Food movement, but his food endeavors are clearly Slow Food-ish, preserving not just traditional dishes but even the very seeds for the obscure local plants beloved in particular villages. "What really interests Musa," Batuman writes, "is that \[food\] embodies a living series of social functions."